August is an odd time to be in Madrid. Granted, the place doesn’t turn into a ghost town as it once did, with everything closing down and the entire population fleeing to the coasts to escape the heat. Thanks to globalisation and/or the recession, most businesses can’t afford to shut up shop for a whole month these days. However, there’s still somewhat of a mass exodus at the end of July (hey, when it gets its own name, operación salida, you know it’s big deal), leaving the city quieter and with a very different feel to the rest of the year. Here are the pros and cons of being here in this most laid-back of months:
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+ EVERYTHING is quieter, and I’m not just talking the Metro. There’s so little traffic I can skip merrily across roads I’d normally have to wait 10 minutes to cross on my morning walk to work. Friends with cars report that the hardest thing about finding a parking space is deciding which one to pick. There are no queues at the cashpoint. No queues at the supermarket. In fact, the only places that appear to be as busy as ever are the tourist attractions – when I tried to go to the Dalí exhibition at the Reina Sofía the other day, the queue was around the block. Ugh.
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– Unfortunately, the crazy people are much more noticeable when there are less normal people around to dilute their craziness, and sweet Jesus wept I’ve seen some weirdos this month. This is especially true if you’re out in the midday heat, since any person with half a brain is at home with the blinds down and the a/c on full blast until it reaches a more normal temperature outside (unless you’re a guiri Brit with a penchant for tanning, naming no names Super-G!). I was on my way to the pool recently with some friends in the sweltering afternoon heat and popped up from the Metro to get out some cash at Embajadores, the place where junkies infamously wait around for illegal taxis to take them down to the big drug market at La Cañada Real. Never again.
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+ Guaranteed sunshine. Let’s not get all negative here, it may be pushing 40 degrees but at least it’s sunny! This may or may not have something to do with the fact I’m from a country which is permanently moist, but the world just seems better when the sun is out. Apart from the odd summer thunderstorm, August in Madrid is non-stop sun, which means lazy days by the pool topping up the tan, eating Maxibons and drinking tinto de verano. The long summer evenings when the city comes alive late and gets lively even later are pretty fun too.
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– There is such a thing as too hot. Especially when it exposes certain individuals’ lack of personal hygiene. Stinky people on the Metro are no bueno.
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+ Table for two? No problem! Even the most popular restaurants or trendiest bars have space in August, and you can usually just waltz right in without a reservation. A refreshing change from when they’re packed to the rafters or you have to wait two hours for a table.
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– It’s a bit of a lottery as to what’s actually open. Some places still do close for all or part of the month, and more than once I’ve rocked up to one of my favourite joints with visitors in tow to find the place shut.
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+ Party at mine! In Spain, it’s so common for the husband to continue working in the city while the wife and kids are packed off to the coast for the summer, they even have an expression for it: estar de Rodríguez. If someone tells you Estoy de Rodríguez it means they’re free to live as a bachelor and do as they like, which could mean hitting the bars and clubs every night, although in reality it’s more likely they’ve spent the last month slobbing out in their underwear in front of the TV and eating dinner directly out of the tin.
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– Being alone sucks after a while! My other half is a teacher and has been away since the end of July, so I’ve been Rodriguez-ing it up for a couple of weeks now and am actually missing him a LOT (don’t tell him I said that though).
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+ In general, everything just feels more chilled. It’s as if the city is taking a breather before gearing up for the next frenetic year. Definitely the time to see Madrid at its most peaceful and relaxed (except if you’re queuing up for Dalí).
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– If you’re still at work, you can’t help but feel that literally EVERYONE in the whole world is on holiday EXCEPT YOU, ughhh. Maybe I have too many teacher friends or something. Apart from poor sods like me who are chained to their desks, the only people around are tourists. Oh, and like a gadzillion charity muggers (or “chuggers”) … where the hell did they all suddenly come from?
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So there you go: the good, the bad and the ugly of August in Madrid. Luckily for my sanity, I’m off on holiday this week so I can join the ranks of tourists, hurrah! Enjoy the rest of the summer.
Lovely photos H! August in Madrid certainly sounds warmer and more exciting than rainy old England, though people with a lack of personal hygiene on public transport is always unpleasant! x E x