Along with stumbling out of bars at 6am, reading over people’s shoulders on the Metro and squealing at little Pug dogs being walked in the Retiro, shopping is one of my favourite things to do in Madrid. With hundreds upon hundreds of fabulous tiendas, the Spanish capital is a mecca for all those who worship at the alter of retail, and with Christmas just round the corner you’ve got the perfect excuse to go out and put a nice big dent in your bank balance. The twinkling lights, the smell of roasting chestnuts and the chimes of gloriously kitsch Cortylandia will make you feel all festive as you explore the streets off Sol, skip down Gran Vía, wander along Calle Fuencarral, stroll through Barrio Salamanca or visit one the shopping centres further out of the city, all full of shops brimming with yuletide treats. Unfortunately, they’ll also be brimming with ferocious Christmas shoppers, hungry for bargains (and possibly blood). If the thought of negotiating a scrum in Zara makes you want to stick your head in a blender, then fear not! Here’s my guide to Madrid’s hidden shopping gems: no crowds, better service and way cooler presents.
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Buried in the heart of Malasaña, Nest Boutique (Plaza San Ildefonso 3, Metro: Tribunal) is run by friendly Nadine and offers a fantastic selection of quirky little gifts, from jewellery and stationery through to things for the home and presents for children. Also great for retro greetings cards if you’re sick of the usual Garfield/Micky Mouse/fluffy kitten-type-crap on offer. Fast Cool (Costanilla de los Desamparados 6, Metro: Antón Martín) not only has a great name but is also an art gallery and shop stocking a variety of offbeat gifts, whereas nearby La Integral (León 25, Metro: Antón Martín) boasts a wonderful collection of wind-up toys, knickknacks and art. If you want something along a Spanish theme and you’re fed up with the usual tourist shite then try Madrid3 (Cruz 35, Metro: Sol) for original gifts and Madrid regalia, served up by lovely owner Javier.
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I love my H&M, Bershka and Blanco as much as the next person, but when you end up wearing exactly the same outfit as the next person, you know it’s time to go independent. Luckily, there are shedloads of unique little shops in Madrid for fashionistas to get suited and booted. For those hard-to-buy-for friends, head to La Maison de Poupée (San Mateo 26, Metro: Tribunal/Alonso Martínez) and check out the funky clothes and accessories displayed in a cosy retro setting. Perennial favourite Mercado de Fuencarral (Fuencarral 35, Metro: Tribunal) is still going strong and never fails to disappoint. Catering to those looking for the latest trends, something a little different or just stuff that’s plain weird (gasmasks anyone?) I love it all, although Uglyshop downstairs in the basement is probably my personal favourite for its amazing jewellery and colourful clothes.
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If you like your clothes to have a bit of history, Madrid has an ample range of vintage shops to satisfy your cravings. Madrileño institution Pepita Is Dead (Doctor Fourquet 10, Metro: Lavapiés) has been open for nearly 20 years and stocks fabulous 60s-style clothes for women, men and children, as well as great selection of accessories. At Lotta Vintage (Hernán Cortés 9, Metro: Tribunal) you’ll find anything from peep-toe shoes to headscarves to wedding dresses, and they’ll even make any necessary alterations so you can get the perfect fit. Or you could head to Retro City (Corredera Alta de San Pablo 4, Metro: Tribunal) for bargains galore, a massive collection of Barbies and, if you’re lucky, a glimpse of the resident Pug dog nestled amongst the hangars (squeal!).
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For culinary delights you’re in the right city. Chocoholics should toddle over to Cacao Sampaka (Orellana 4, Metro: Alonso Martínez ) which sells scrummy sweet treats in all shapes and sizes. Their chocolate bars come in a huge variety of flavours and the classy packaging makes them perfect for presents. If you like cheese then you’ll love Poncelet (Argensola 27, Metro: Alonso Martínez) from the moment you walk in and the amazing aromas hit your nostrils. They stock cheeses from Spain and all over Europe, along with gift hampers and all the compliments you could wish for (from crackers and chutneys through to fondue sets and port) and they’ll even vacuum pack your purchases so you don’t stink out your suitcase on your journey home to see the folks. Finally, choose a nice drop of wine to go with your cheese from the massive selection at Lavinia (Ortega y Gasset 16, Metro: Nuñez de Balboa) and enjoy a few tapas in their Espacio Gastronómico while you’re at it.
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Those of you who haven’t discovered the world of Lomography should hotfoot it to one of the Lomography Shops (Echegaray 5, Metro: Sevilla / Argensola 1, Metro: Alonso Martínez/Chueca) and find out just what this cult photography phenomenon is all about. From the classic Fisheye to the Pop 9 (9 images in one frame), their range of cameras and accessories make ideal gifts for snap-happy friends and relatives. If you’re looking for something a little more x-rated, check out La Jugueteria (Travesía de San Mateo 12, Metro: Tribunal/Chueca). Its boudoir-like interior gives it a much classier feel than most of the sex-shops around Chueca, and its impressive array of adult playthings means you’re bound to find something that tickles your fancy.
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Of course, this is just a small selection of the countless shopping opportunities on offer in Madrid. From chain stores to traditional markets, random Chino bazaars to seasonal street stalls that spring up around Christmas, there’s something for everyone. If you want to escape the crowds try less obvious areas: the backstreets of Malasaña and Calle Ballesta (give the prostitutes a wave!), trendy Barrio Las Salesas and the side streets around Antón Martín and Huertas. Most places are open Monday-Saturday around 10am until 9pm and most bigger shops are open on Sundays, giving you oodles of browsing time. I’m off to make my Christmas list right now in fact.
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Anyone know if Father Christmas delivers Pug dogs?
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